After a hiatus of almost a year and a half since our
last road trip to Rajasthan and Gujarat and
the travel bug hit me again. The aim this time was to plan something
more arduous and adventurous. The aim was to drive, trek and raft.
Driving on plain land was a been there done that thing...That set me thinking
and when a friend suggested Auli, Uttarakhand...i almost jumped at it. The thought of how to reach Auli was more exciting that what i would
actually do at Auli. With minimalistic hill driving experience
it didn't seem like a great idea. I had friends tell me the standard chicken
and egg story...hey ...you cant do this unless u have hill driving experience
and i was like...how the hell am i going to get hill driving experience unless
i drive in the hills...So quite determined i gave these suggestions a
pass and went right ahead with the plans. In this blog i would try to answer a
whole lot of questions that i myself had and didn't find in any
blog. I'm hoping the next
time traveler to Auli and Badrinath would be good at
least as far as information goes. So here goes some answers to start with
Q1: If i have never driven in the hills can i
do this route?
Ans 1: I have more than 10 years of car driving
and 5 to 6 years of bike driving behind me. My only experience
of hill driving was to Mussourie and Nainital. And folks that hardly
can be called as hill driving. But even with this experience i was able to do
the stretch.. So stretch your minds kill the fear and step out into the
unknown.
Q2: Do i need a 4 wheel drive to do this
stretch?
Ans2: Absolutely not. I have a 2008 Honda Civic, manual transmission and i
did this stretch comfortably. I know someone who did it in a Tata Manza
also.The only issue in low floor cars is the danger of rocks hitting the car
bottom. As long as you manoeuvre around
and keep your eyes on the road you are good to go. I even climbed the 14 KM from Joshimath to Auli on mostly 2nd and occasionally 1st and 4th gears.
Q3: The Car interiors and passenger interiors..
Ans3: Service your car before you leave, this is a must. Carry enough spares, no mechanics for miles, so you got to do your own things. Carry a tow chain (if you don't get one carry a thick nylon rope). Carry warm clothing, blankets and a bag full of dry food stuff and loads of water. Landslides are common . I know someone who had a boulder hit his rear glass and broke it along with damaging his bonnet. He covered it with Tarpaulin and moved on only to get stuck four days due to a landslide. The food, water and warm clothing will sustain you in the middle of nowhere. Don't let this deter your resolve to hit this route. Whats a route without all these challenges..
09 Jun 2012, Saturday - Delhi - Shivpuri:
Daybreak at Delhi, probably 0545 hrs |
The car, Honda Civic, 2008. Family size, self, wife and son. The starting point Vasant Kunj, New Delhi. Had an early start to the day at exactly 0508 hrs. It was daybreak but the sun was yet to come out. Got out of the city pretty fast. The tough part is finding the left turn after Nizamuddin bridge to hit the Meerut road. I chose to miss the left turn at Ghazhipur road and instead took the left a few km later which has a board showing CISF and Mohan Nagar. This road goes and joins GT Road (or Grand Trunk road) as its called, where you take a right. thereafter follow the road signs to reach Meerut road. The exit from Delhi always confuses me, but hoping to get a better handle on it the next time over.Thanks to staring early, i reached Meerut in good time and by 0640 hrs i was on Meerut toll road. this road is like a blessing after the 90 min of hell that one has endured. Fantastic toll road for the next 70 odd km from Meerut to Muzzafarnagar. Thereafter it shifts to single lane till Roorkie and then onwards contiunues in single lane.Roorkie is an important junction for Dehradun and Haridwar travelers. Those wishing to go to Dehradun should take a left at Roorkie and those going to Haridwar continue straight. The drive from here on till Haridwar was still bearable. We reached Haridwar at 1000 hrs, thats just short of 5 hours. The sick part was the journey was from Haridwar to Shivpuri a distance of just 38 odd Km. There was a massive traffic jam and it took us almost 3 hours to wade thru the jam. We finally reached our hotel at Shivpuri at about 1300 hrs.
My son river Trekking along the Ganges at Shivpuri |
The last 3 hours was grueling. Total travelling time, 7 hours 50 min. including 30 min breakfast break and a total distance of 279 km. We stayed at the Riviera resort at Shivpuri http://www.theriviera.co.in/index.asp . Had 2 reasons to stay here. First its on the highway to Joshimath and out of Rishikesh and gives you a good head start if you wish to head for Auli and second he gave us a good deal. The resort is on the hill and a short walk down the hill takes one to the Ganges. My son and me went down to the river and did some great river trekking along the rocks of the river. I'm not sure how many of you have done this, but its a fantastic sport and can definitely give you the thrills.
10 Jun 2012, Sunday- Shivpuri to Auli:
This was the day i was both waiting for and dreading at the
same time. Waiting because it was the adventure that my mind was dreaming of
for the last year or so and dreading because one it was my first long drive in
the hills and second it was likely to be the 10 hours of this drive.
Nevertheless the enthusiasm was high and i was so looking forward to this.
We decided to start early and left the resort at 0620 hrs. The destination was
Auli. The route was
Shivpuri-Devprayag-Srinagar-Rudraprayag-Karnaprayag -
Shivpuri to Joshimath |
View of the snow capped mountains from GMVN Auli |
Meadows of Nanda devi Bio sphere reserve - Auli |
12 Jun 2012, Tuesday- Auli - Badrinath:
Badrinath road (Hanumanchetti to Badrinath stretch - 10 km) |
Badrinath (other than 10 km stretch rest of road is of this quality) |
13 Jun 2012, Wednesday- Auli - Gauchar:
After quite an eventful 4 days since starting, it was time to head back on the return leg.We left the GMVN hotel at 0750 hrs. The drive down to Joshimath was quite peaceful and having done the route 3 times earlier it was kind of child's play for me. We had packed a few sandwiches for breakfast. We decided to do a working lunch and continue driving till we reached our destination, Gauchar about 104 Km downhill from Auli towards Rishikesh. We intended to stop at a small quaint place at Gauchar arranged by one of my friends who was kind enough to oblige at short notice. The downhill journey was almost as easy or difficult as the climb. The only care one had to take was to keep whispering to one self "go slow go slow". The car tends to have a life of its own on the downhill stretch and you need to reign in the engine in the interest of your own safety. Speeds were definitely slower than the climb but in and around 24 to 26 kmph. Though we intended to complete the distance in one stretch, the family decided in favor of a tea break and finally we stopped at 0900 hrs at a little place for tea, and my son downed some hot Maggie noodles, quite a delicacy in these parts and found in almost every small joint at any altitude. After a 30 min stop we headed for Gauchar. We were there at 1230 hrs or so, almost a 4 hour 20 min drive including the break. Gauchar is a small quaint town about 12 Km after Karnaprayag. After a quick lunch and a fast nap, we decided the explore the hills behind our cottage. There were some villages and the Alaknanda flows through the villages and the hills. We walked around for an hour or so and headed back to the room.After a quiet evening we were all excited to do the second last leg to Shivpuri.
14 and 15 Jun 2012, Thursday/Friday- Gauchar - Shivpuri:
We decided to start early , left the place at Gauchar by 0655 hrs. We stopped at Maletha just after Srinagar for breakfast. It was a nice place called Riverside resort. Looks like a good place to stay also, though there is nothing around to do except trek.The road after this point especially from Devprayag onwards was quite difficult. Looked funny especially after having done worse stretches, no idea why this looked difficult. An afterthought revealed that the road was narrow and the down traffic was at the outer side of the road with a sheer drop. Finally we reached our hotel (The Riviera) at 1300 hrs covering 139 km from Gauchar. The drive from Auli broken in 2 stretches was comfortable but obviously less challenging than the Shivpuri-Auli stretch. We followed up the evening with another stretch of river trekking along the Ganges. Another quiet evening later we were looking forward to the rafting trip the next day.
The sun reflecting off the Ganga |
The hotel had arranged our rafting trip with Red Chillies Adventures http://www.redchilliadventure.com/. The guide was good and safe and they had a Kayak following our boat for rescues if any. I strongly recommend them for any rafting expedition. They also undertake rafting in Ladakh, The website says it all. We chose the 28 km rafting stretch starting from a place called Marine drive (wonder why its called that).We got a safety briefing and were on the boat. The ride overall was safe we jumped in water at least 8 to 10 times and once even during the rapids. the guide knew his job and the river well. He even stopped us from doing any touristy rowing and made us row with all our strength making it a true adventure trip. We even had a pleasant snack break, pepsi and chips!! The overall route took about 3 hours and was very well worth it. Highly recommended.
16 Jun 2012, Saturday- Shivpuri - Delhi:
The next day we has an early start left the hotel at 0700 hrs. We crossed Rishikesh in good time. thereafter there was a massive traffic jam. It took us almost 90 minutes to get out of Haridwar. The route till we reached the toll road was terrible with traffic moving at snails pace. The government needs to do something with the road if they expect people to visit Uttarakhand. Now people do not have a choice and need the damn road to get away from the mess that is Delhi. But with a good road the overall experience will get pleasant. Time lost in the slow stretch till Muzzafarnagar was taken care of by the fantastic toll road till Meerut. Post that too the traffic was thin so we could make it in good time. We finally got back home to Vasant Kunj at 1500 hrs.
Overall it was a fantastic trip.For a guy who loves to drive all he can see is the road. The beauty of the hills or the river flowing past are just comments that you hear from fellow passengers. For the traveler all such images fuse together and you only see the grey/black background of the road and that itself is orgasmic enough to keep the traveler going. Driving till you collapse dead tired is a dream every traveler sees day in and day out. I had very long stretches of continuous driving and all i can sum up is with a quote by Lao Tzu “A good traveler has no fixed plans, and is not intent on arriving.” This trip ends but i did sow not one but many seeds of possible future trips and a corner of my creative mind is furiously at work looking forward to the next trip.
I hope a traveler on this route can use this blog for a safe and planned travel. Please mail me if you find errors or want me to add more details to this blog. So on that last note, my fellow travelers, Au Revoir.....
@Vasant Kunj
14 Jul 2012, 1828 Hrs
Overall it was a fantastic trip.For a guy who loves to drive all he can see is the road. The beauty of the hills or the river flowing past are just comments that you hear from fellow passengers. For the traveler all such images fuse together and you only see the grey/black background of the road and that itself is orgasmic enough to keep the traveler going. Driving till you collapse dead tired is a dream every traveler sees day in and day out. I had very long stretches of continuous driving and all i can sum up is with a quote by Lao Tzu “A good traveler has no fixed plans, and is not intent on arriving.” This trip ends but i did sow not one but many seeds of possible future trips and a corner of my creative mind is furiously at work looking forward to the next trip.
I hope a traveler on this route can use this blog for a safe and planned travel. Please mail me if you find errors or want me to add more details to this blog. So on that last note, my fellow travelers, Au Revoir.....
@Vasant Kunj
14 Jul 2012, 1828 Hrs